Notes from Valencia

• Spain may be closer to Florida in GDP, but it is a near-perfect match to California in landscape and climate — without the earthquakes and with much more affordable real estate. I am not surprised they have a problem with foreigners buying up properties, but I was surprised not to see even more tourists in Valencia and towns south like Dénia.
• American service industry know-how never quite recovered after covid lockdowns, so it was a pleasant surprise to see it alive and well in Valencia province and the city proper. Even the worst establishment we’ve visited — a newly-opened, somewhat touristy restaurant with an unexperienced server — was better than the median East Coast sit-down place.
• An excellent example of effortless hospitality was the Westin hotel in Mestalla that made us, three sloppy Serbian-Americans (not all of the children came, and I should write more about this strategy of bringing kids over to trips), not feel out-of-place even though most other visitors dressed as and behaved as royalty. We are very familiar with the “you shouldn’t be here” look, and it just wasn’t there.
• This may be too specific, but that Westin also had the best indoor swimming pool out of the many we have used.
• There is no bad place to put a few small tables and chairs and serve cold beer, nuts, olives and a plate of cheese and ham for a few euros each. Or, if you live close to the beach, put up your own folding table and chairs and have a friend & family gathering.
• The above are so widespread because even the “big” apartments are generally small by American standards — yes, I have been looking at real estate listings — so most people want to hang out in “third places”. Every other article from Chris Arnade mentions this so it isn’t a groundbreaking thought, but it’s nice to see it confirmed.
• Speaking of real estate: price per square foot in Valencia is cheaper than in Belgrade which tells me that either Valencia is massively underrated, Belgrade is overrated, or most likely both.
• Bad people sometimes do good things, and Franco did a good one for Valencia by moving the Turia river out of and around the town which 1) saved the city itself from being flooded including just last year and 2) gave it acres and acres of priceless green spaces that are within walking distance to most of the population.
• This was my second time in the area and I plan on coming back at least a few more so yes, I liked it.

The cell phone of my childhood, still in operation. If you are in Serbia and need to leave the Matrix there are quite a few of them around.

Yesterday I learned about talismanic shirts, and now I know what nerds from 500 years ago did for fun and profit.

Flighty does not seem to be as up-to-date traveling internationally as it is on domestic flights. The IST airport departures board had our flight listed as delayed as soon as we got there, yet the app thought everything was fine. Trust no one.

Day 2 in Istanbul, finding out that the coffee we had been ordering from Amazon for years started out within walking distance of Hagia Sophia.

A cabin made for Waldenponding, even for those of us who are in theory against it.

It is 28°C with 30% humidity and a cool breeze coming from the east. This is one of the many reasons we are again spending the summer in Serbia.

A few good links to start the week:

• Innovation and Repetition by René Girard
• Face it: you’re a crazy person by Adam Mastroianni
• How to build the perfect city by Chris Arnade (also in conversation with Tyler)
• Does the Pulitzer Prize Hate Substack? by Ted Gioia (note where or these articles live!)

Credit where it’s due: the Mobile Passport Control app was super-easy to set up (provided your passport or green card are more than 4 years from expiration) and cut down my entry at Dulles Airport by at least 30 minutes. I was pleasantly surprised.

Two good travel-adjacent articles that recently came out:

• Why travel didn’t bring the world together from FT’s Janan Ganesh (that is a gift link)
• Is it Euro-poor, or Ameri-poor? from Chris Arnade

Here is Ganesh:

Travel is enormous fun. Besides that, it can be an educational top-up, if you arrive in a place with a foundation of reading. (And if you don’t over-index whatever you happen to observe in person.) But a connecting experience? A reminder of the essential oneness of humankind? If it were that, we should have expected national consciousness to recede, not surge, in the age of cheap flights, a dissolved Iron Curtain and a China that became porous in both directions. 

To explain this away, some will insist on the difference between crass “tourism” and real “travel”. Please. This has become a class distinction, nothing more, like that between “expats” and “immigrants”.

And here is Arnade:

It is primarily we intellectuals and elites who culture shop, picking and choosing what works best for us. That’s true in Europe and the US, where each group of elites is inoculated from the least admirable qualities. Well-to-do Americans can escape the banal landscapes, either through travel or by living in the exclusive US neighborhoods that share European qualities, and find belonging in communities formed from their careers that cross national and cultural boundaries. Highly motivated Europeans can move to America, or work in a large corporation and escape European provincialism, while not giving up the aesthetic and communal benefits it offers.

It is the ‘normies,’ working-class, back-row, or whatever you want to call them, who make up the vast majority of citizens, that are tethered to live within their culture. That isn’t who is engaged in this debate, but it is who it should be about, not us cultural chameleons.

I am writing this from Zürich where I have spent a lovely spring day flaneuring in between business meetings. So, yes.