• The downtown has been hollowed out to the point of being unrecognizable. This is in part due to less foot traffic — the middle of July is when people tend to leave Belgrade — but the empty, broken store fronts make it worse. I am sure everyone was at one of many shopping malls, which is sad.
• File this under “things that are different from when I was a student”: hardly any newspaper stand or store open past 10pm. I had to walk quite a few blocks to get a bottle of water. On the other hand, I may be misremembering how close by things were back then.
• In general, it also looked like more of a generic Central European city than I remembered, and a shoddy one at that. I guess that means quality of life for its citizens may be better (though I doubt it) but it is of less interest if you are a tourist in the Balkans. Granted, I may be used to some things you may find interesting not being from the area.
• At dinner, a waiter lectured me on what I did wrong when putting in my order. It has been a while since I experienced this and I do not miss it at all, though I also have two weeks in Montenegro to look forward to so I’d better be prepared.
• On the flip side, the Moskva hotel had superb service and is unlike any hotel you could visit in the US. Sure, there are Hyatts and Hiltons and whatnot in Belgrade now and I am sure they too are better than their American counterparts but I doubt any can match Moskva for the Murder on the Orient Express atmosphere.
• Things overall are not nearly as bad as they were in the 1990s, but one things that is most certainly worse and obviously so is the inequality which must be worse than even in the US. Branko Milanović who is the world’s expert on inequality and Serbian by origin had a few words to say about the topic.
• In support of this, the new Terminal 2 at Nikola Tesla Airport in Belgrade is more Asian than Western. There were perfumes on sale there for more than $500, which you will most certainly not see at Dulles.
• This is after a single night spent there and seeing the place mostly as a tourist.

• Istanbul airport is Asian more than Western, and shows what type of people are expected to travel by plane in Turkey. The more I travel outside the US the more American airports resemble Greyhound bus stations, which, good for the US of A!
• Turkey used to be where you went for shopping at bargain-basement prices. Not any more, at least if your main currency is the dollar. Either the Turkish Lira is overvalued or the USD is undervalued — or why not both? — but nothing in Istanbul felt like a bargain.
• The above doesn’t even take into consideration the differential pricing for museum entry, whereby foreigners pay an order of magnitude higher prices thank someone with a Turkish ID card. This is generally fair and I consider it a “domestic discount” rather than a tourist markup.
• Per my hosts — I am too lazy to verify but do feel free to check — the city doubled in size in the last two decades and stretches across more than a hundred kilometers. The unfortunate souls who live on the Asian side but work on the European (broadly working-class) or vice versa (broadly middle and upper-middle class) both face hours-long commutes even with enviable (for American standards) public transport.
• This rapid increase in population is due in part to quick-and-dirty builds that aren’t necessarily earthquake-proof, and everyone is waiting for the next big one to hit the city and decimate it. Draw your own conclusions on how that may affect the citizen psyche.
• The underground Basilica Cistern should be counted as one of the Wonders of the World, more so than Haiga Sofia which has clearly seen better days. See also Belgrad Forest, about which I learned while visiting the cistern.
• Talismanic shirts.
• We did not have a bad meal, each one in a typical “Turkish” restaurant with meze and some seafood but each with a completely different array of dishes and ingredients. Pursley (sic!) was a revelation.
• The beer was mediocre — though at least one more Western-leaning place had Duvel on the menu — but I liked raki (with a bit of water and plenty of ice) more than I expected considering I am not a fan of anis.
• Surprising number of infants and toddlers out on the street playing past midnight. Napping during the summer heat and using the cooler night air for some outdoor time?
• Serbian language is full of turcisms so I expected to recognize at least some of the written signs, but those were few and far between. Then I realized the words I know as “Turkish” were imported centuries ago thousands of kilometers away from current-day Turkey. Indeed some of them my hosts recognized as what the very old people living in far-away provinces might have once said.
• Four days weren’t nearly enough.

• Spain may be closer to Florida in GDP, but it is a near-perfect match to California in landscape and climate — without the earthquakes and with much more affordable real estate. I am not surprised they have a problem with foreigners buying up properties, but I was surprised not to see even more tourists in Valencia and towns south like Dénia.
• American service industry know-how never quite recovered after covid lockdowns, so it was a pleasant surprise to see it alive and well in Valencia province and the city proper. Even the worst establishment we’ve visited — a newly-opened, somewhat touristy restaurant with an unexperienced server — was better than the median East Coast sit-down place.
• An excellent example of effortless hospitality was the Westin hotel in Mestalla that made us, three sloppy Serbian-Americans (not all of the children came, and I should write more about this strategy of bringing kids over to trips), not feel out-of-place even though most other visitors dressed as and behaved as royalty. We are very familiar with the “you shouldn’t be here” look, and it just wasn’t there.
• This may be too specific, but that Westin also had the best indoor swimming pool out of the many we have used.
• There is no bad place to put a few small tables and chairs and serve cold beer, nuts, olives and a plate of cheese and ham for a few euros each. Or, if you live close to the beach, put up your own folding table and chairs and have a friend & family gathering.
• The above are so widespread because even the “big” apartments are generally small by American standards — yes, I have been looking at real estate listings — so most people want to hang out in “third places”. Every other article from Chris Arnade mentions this so it isn’t a groundbreaking thought, but it’s nice to see it confirmed.
• Speaking of real estate: price per square foot in Valencia is cheaper than in Belgrade which tells me that either Valencia is massively underrated, Belgrade is overrated, or most likely both.
• Bad people sometimes do good things, and Franco did a good one for Valencia by moving the Turia river out of and around the town which 1) saved the city itself from being flooded including just last year and 2) gave it acres and acres of priceless green spaces that are within walking distance to most of the population.
• This was my second time in the area and I plan on coming back at least a few more so yes, I liked it.

The cell phone of my childhood, still in operation. If you are in Serbia and need to leave the Matrix there are quite a few of them around.

Yesterday I learned about talismanic shirts, and now I know what nerds from 500 years ago did for fun and profit.

Flighty does not seem to be as up-to-date traveling internationally as it is on domestic flights. The IST airport departures board had our flight listed as delayed as soon as we got there, yet the app thought everything was fine. Trust no one.

Day 2 in Istanbul, finding out that the coffee we had been ordering from Amazon for years started out within walking distance of Hagia Sophia.

A cabin made for Waldenponding, even for those of us who are in theory against it.

It is 28°C with 30% humidity and a cool breeze coming from the east. This is one of the many reasons we are again spending the summer in Serbia.

A few good links to start the week:

• Innovation and Repetition by René Girard
• Face it: you’re a crazy person by Adam Mastroianni
• How to build the perfect city by Chris Arnade (also in conversation with Tyler)
• Does the Pulitzer Prize Hate Substack? by Ted Gioia (note where or these articles live!)